In Dialogue: Julia Sullivan
In Dialogue: Julia Sullivan
When I’m in need of time to recharge, I immediately envision arriving at Henrietta Red at opening, choosing two open seats at the bar, ordering a Little Deuce Coupe and a half-dozen Kumamoto oysters, and filling up by way of delicious flavors and restorative conversation. Henrietta Red is one of my very favorite places to take a deep inhale, with myself, my husband, and close girlfriends.
Sunlight pours into each room of Henrietta Red. A color palette of soft blues and neutrals covers its surfaces and calmly welcomes me. A rich sense of friendship and connection reaches wall to wall and ceiling to floor. It is a wonderfully fitting place to find myself when I’m craving a long-lasting boost.
More than I feel drawn to Henrietta Red itself, I feel drawn to Julia Sullivan, its chef and co-owner. When Henrietta Red first opened, I was inspired to learn about the human being behind such a refreshing and remarkable place, one that serves delicious seafood in the inland state of Tennessee. Only someone with an utmost commitment to quality can accomplish such a feat, and Julia has absolutely done so.
Julia is one of most creative and hardest-working women I have ever met. Not only have I seen her creativity come to life through her restaurant, but I’ve also seen it come to life in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic. As the pandemic devastated small business owners and restaurants, Julia simultaneously pivoted and remained true to her artistic and entrepreneurial values. She led virtual classes, opened Henrietta’s Fish Camp, and promptly created a process for takeaway and dining safely. I believe one of the greatest manifestations of human creativity is the act of adapting and changing, and Julia has exemplified this time and time again.
Julia is the chef and co-owner of Henrietta Red in Nashville, Tennessee. Charleston Wine and Food writes, “Since opening, Henrietta Red was named one of America’s 50 Best New Restaurants by Bon Appétit in 2017 and one of GQ’s Best New Restaurants in America, as well as recognized as a James Beard Foundation Award semifinalist in the Best New Restaurant category, in 2018. Additionally, Julia was named one of the Best Young Chefs in America by Robb Report, one of the Best New Chefs in 2018 by Food & Wine, and recognized as a 2019 semifinalist and a 2020 finalist in the James Beard Foundation Awards Best Chef: Southeast category.”
Below, Julia and I are in dialogue about family, the value of time, self-efficacy, and more.
Chelsea: Henrietta Red, your welcoming and delicious restaurant, is named after your grandparents. What is one thing you cherished about your relationship with them? What does each part of the name, “Henrietta” and “Red”, mean and represent to you?
Julia: My grandparents were smart, hilarious, and humble people who loved family and storytelling. I have memories of sitting on their shag carpeting, with a South Carolina football game playing in the background, listening to them tell tales while everyone else in the room laughed until they cried. Henrietta was one of five sisters from South of Charleston who spoke with a thick low country accent and used incredibly charming colloquialisms that were sometimes difficult to follow. Red was a sweet, southern doctor who knew everyone in their community and delivered most of its children, including my Aunt Sharon, who coincidently married my Uncle Harry many years later. They were beloved by many, including their family, and represent hospitality and conviviality to me. The name 'Henrietta Red' represents that but has come to mean something different. She has a life and personality, almost like another character altogether.
Chelsea: In my upcoming cookbook, I write, “Delicious ingredients lead to delicious meals. To fully appreciate each meal we create, we must understand that which makes it great: our commitment to the individual ingredients themselves.” Is there one ingredient, one that may feel unexpected to the reader, you feel is especially essential in a kitchen?
Julia: Time! In a world where cooking and eating are often about doing the least amount possible, we cannot undervalue time. Learning takes time, skill-building takes time, and processes take time. Of course, we can make plenty of delicious things well and quickly, but to really cook and enjoy it requires time.
Chelsea: Alongside healthcare professionals, teachers, and more, chefs were greatly affected by COVID-19. I vividly recall how diligently you worked to pivot the priorities of Henrietta Red and The Party Line. I especially appreciate that you prioritized teaching cooking classes through Zoom. In spite of your steadfast efforts, I can’t imagine how difficult the impact of COVID-19 must have felt in the moment. Now, in a post-pandemic world, is there one lesson you carry with you from this time of rapid change and re-prioritization?
Julia: I learned that there is no rush to do more. A city like Nashville has more opportunities than our creatives can possibly respond to, so it's perfectly fine to wait for the right one.
Chelsea: Your work asks so much of you—physically, intellectually, and creatively. It’s evident you pour your body, mind, and heart into your restaurant, food, and the experiences you create. What is one way you nourish yourself in the in-between moments? In other words, what is one thing that feeds you as you feed the bodies, minds, and hearts of others?
Julia: Running a restaurant keeps me busy, so I don't cook at work every day, and if I do, I complete a prep list and run a service, which feels very different from cooking a meal. I do various things for self-care, but something that still fills me up is cooking a full meal for my friends. I love having friends over on a Sunday or Monday for family dinner—spending the day cooking, setting a proper table, drinking good wine, and laughing while they tell stories.
Chelsea: What is one personal characteristic, or one personality trait, that helps you bring your vision to life as a chef and entrepreneur? (In other words, what is one personal characteristic, or one personality trait, of which you feel proud and grateful?)
Julia: I have high self-efficacy, which is to say I believe in my ability to get things done. I also trust my taste. When I opened Henrietta Red, it was important to me that I was adding value to the market in Nashville, and not opening something redundant just ’cause it might make money. If I didn't believe I could do it, I wouldn't have tried in the first place.
You can follow Julia on Instagram here. You can follow Henrietta Red on Instagram here, as well as book a reservation here.
Photo by: Danielle Atkins